Bodegas El Grifo, nestled in the stark, volcanic landscape of Lanzarote, stands as a testament to human resilience and ingenuity. Its history, deeply intertwined with the island’s unique terroir, spans over two centuries, making it the oldest bodega in the Canary Islands and the tenth oldest in Spain.
Their story begins in 1775, less than 40 years after the devastating volcanic eruptions that reshaped Lanzarote’s landscape. Don Antonio is regarded as the founder of El Grifo and he was a visionary landowner, who recognized the potential of the “picón,” the volcanic ash that blanketed the island. This porous material, he discovered, effectively retained moisture, allowing vines to thrive in the arid climate. He began planting vines in the pre-existing “gerias,” natural depressions in the lava fields, creating individual pits protected by low, semi-circular stone walls to shield them from the relentless winds.
This pioneering approach, born of necessity, became the foundation of Lanzarote’s unique viticultural practices, a method that continues to define El Grifo’s wines today. The bodega’s name, “El Grifo,” meaning “the griffin,” reflects the family crest and symbolizes the strength and endurance required to cultivate vines in such challenging conditions.
Throughout the 19th century, El Grifo expanded, adapting to the changing economic climate and technological advancements. The family invested in new techniques, improving winemaking processes while maintaining the traditional approach to vineyard management. The phylloxera plague, which ravaged European vineyards in the late 19th century, bypassed Lanzarote, thanks to the island’s isolation and the volcanic soil, which proved inhospitable to the pest. This allowed El Grifo to preserve pre-phylloxera vines, some of which are still used in their production.
In the 20th century, El Grifo solidified its reputation as a producer of high-quality wines. The bodega embraced modernization, incorporating stainless steel tanks and temperature-controlled fermentation, while remaining committed to the indigenous grape varieties of Lanzarote, primarily Malvasía Volcánica. This unique grape, perfectly adapted to the island’s climate, yields wines with distinctive mineral notes and a smoky character, reflecting the volcanic terroir.
Bodegas El Grifo’s story is inextricably linked not just to the volcanic landscape but also to the artistic vision of César Manrique, Lanzarote’s most famous son. His influence significantly contributed to the bodega’s modern image and its integration into the island’s cultural landscape.
A fervent advocate for preserving Lanzarote’s unique natural beauty, Manrique recognized the cultural and historical significance of El Grifo. He understood that the bodega’s traditional viticulture, with its “gerias” and stone walls, was an integral part of the island’s identity, a testament to the harmonious relationship between humans and the environment.
Manrique’s artistic eye extended to the presentation of El Grifo’s wines and the bodega itself. He contributed to the visual identity of the brand, emphasizing the connection between the wine, the volcanic landscape, and the island’s artistic heritage.
Today, El Grifo stands as a symbol of Lanzarote’s resilience and a guardian of its winemaking traditions. The bodega continues to produce award-winning wines, exporting them worldwide, and showcasing the unique character of Lanzarote’s volcanic terroir. The generations of the family who have worked the land, from the 18th century pioneers to the current stewards, have ensured that the spirit of El Grifo endures, a testament to the enduring bond between human ingenuity and the harsh beauty of Lanzarote. The wines that flow from these volcanic vines carry with them the history of the island, a taste of the sun-drenched, windswept landscape, and the unwavering dedication of those who have nurtured it for centuries.
Do you love Lanzarote?
The best way to stay in touch with all the Lanzarote news is by subscribing to our famous weekly Lanzarote newsletter, which we’ve been sending out by email every Friday morning since 2008. It’s packed with all the news, latest articles, upcoming events, photos and a video which we shoot fresh from somewhere on the island.
